Last Thursday saw the start of New York Fashion Week. Endless selfies from bloggers, models and designers alike have monopolized Instagram, rendering me a tad envious (I’m joking. I am REALLY jealous! Haha!). Pictures depict the fluent and uncomplicated style of fashion goers on the street and every picture is contaminated with a cool air of effortless style. I want so badly to participate but for the time being (my goal is to be there in 5 years time) I am content with sitting here, writing about the wonderful creations from an array of designers who have already presented their Autumn/Winter 2018 collections.
One of the things that has been a consistent style among many of the shows that I have watched has been the underlying trend of Athleisure. Since around about 2015 this trend has dominated street style, giving a more urban edge to otherwise chic or girly outfits. This year is set to be no different – think back to Louis Vuitton’s SS18 show which saw super techy trainers and short shorts encased in luxe 18th century inspired overcoats. For many designers this past week it has been about incorporating this style more indirectly. At Victoria Beckham’s final farewell show in NY, she exhibited two looks made up of soft sophistication, subtly mixed with an athletic vibe. My favourite of the looks has to be the two tonal black maxi dress with drawstring turtleneck, slashed and reconstructed on the left side with a satin-like fabric. This quietness of the trend was also apparent on the runway of Prabal Gurung. Using loud patterns and colours, Gurung, quietly introduced a satin-look sports jacket on top of a navy turtleneck. The antithesis of these looks was conveyed on the catwalk of Philip Plein. The catwalk was converted into a snowy palace, indeed true to what we expect in the colder seasons. the show was incredibly extra; Adiana Lima and a 7ft robot, plastered with the houses name, were the first to strut. the show was a concession of sporty garms with a futuristic flare. the metallic puffer jacket or the red polka-dot tracksuit was my favourite of the shows ensembles.
From sports Luxe to women in pink. Though there were the usual autumnal hues, expected of an AW show, vibrant colours, injected throughout the week (so far), gave an energetic feel. 80’s silhouettes, equipped with: bold colours, shoulder pads and oversized blazers, ran the show at Adam Selman who gave credit to fashion in decades gone by. And at Matthew Adams Dolan, the re-occurring check trend was made into a suit, packed with shoulder pads, also pointing towards silhouettes from another time. It seems as though the aesthetic of the power suit is back and interpreted in a more relaxed way at Sies Marjan, who crafted rose-wood satin into a two-piece suit. the airy trousers extenuated the model’s legs and the strict shoulders were perfectly adapted to her shape. Alexander Wang produced a vision of magenta when a brilliant playsuit shimmered down the catwalk, stealing the attention of the crowd. There were lessons to be learnt at Ulla Johnson and Tory Burch, where viewers were taught how to dress in waves of pink without sacrificing a cool girl vibe. Both designers took on a botanical approach to their set design, making the experience an even more memorable one. In celebration of his 10years at his self-named fashion house: Christian Siriano, the designer presented a multitude of glamorous designs. In adherence to all things pink, he presented a few designs which paid homage to this usual summer colour, in the style of a beautifully crafted pink cape gown, finished with minute ruffles and a high neckline. My final favourite; two tonal pinks was cast at Tibi. The relaxed blouse, with an elastic hem and arms, paired with an equally chic, pink lemonade skirt with back fringing detail took my heart.
Check me out
I don’t think there could be a bad way to style checks. Leading the way with my favourite of designs that I have seen so far is the two-piece suit, walked on the catwalk of Bottega Veneta. Buttons topped the jacket of the yellow, brown, white and black checked ensemble and were paired with a pair of luminous yellow pointed kitty heels. Jonathan Simkhai impressed the audience with two pieces, boasting the print. The cinched waist of the gingerbread coloured suit came alive because of the patching of a lighter, plain peanut panelling under the arms and down the outside of the legs. A playfulness was apparent in the get-up because of the delicate embroidery in white and orange, which lined the shoulders and lower waist, creating a perfect V-shape, adding to the slender figure of the wearer. Another, more contemporary, demeanour competed in the form of a jumpsuit. Parallel lines which created the pinstripe effect on the actual bodice garment, juxtaposed with the puffy, half arm sleeves which were completed with an unusual use of a lighter and airier fabric with white pleating. Nicole Miller and Kate Spade both produced suits composed of grey plaid in boyish frames. Though the suits were clearly tailored, expect to see baggier and more relaxed silhouettes in the coming fall. Venturing away from suits; Prabal Gurung showed a constructed dress, made up of different shapes of fabric and flaunted with the show’s signature: one dangling earring.
Lace is such a delicate fabric, which when designed into the correct dresses, can give the garment an exquisitely elegant aspect. For me, Jonathan Simkhai exhibited some of the most beautiful ways in which to apply lace in his silk and lace gowns. The neutral hues of this intimately designed gown give the aura of late night bedroom lust or the confidence of being the sexiest female in a downtown bar (paired with some black biker boots, a fedora and a leather jacket). His genius also presented a sultry burgundy skirt, made of velvet which was diluted with nude lace, which swam into the skirt from a deep plunged v neck. A similar neckline was incorporated into a sensual black number, where intricate patterns woven into the lace gave way at the waistline to a stream of black satin with slit thighs, controlled by little silver zips. The mood was crimson at Prabal Gurung, where lace was used as a cross-section in the upper bodice of the dress. I adore this look because you could strut the NY streets in a beautiful pair of sandals with an equally luxe pink overcoat or pair it with a pair of white flatforms and a tracksuit top. I finish at Alexander Wang and Brock Collection who flaunted mono-chrome ideals in the vision of black lace tights and a graceful white tiered dress. The Brock Collection gave an air of seduction as a nude bra was sported under the waves of tender white lace.
All images cropped from Vogue.co.uk/catwalk.